PLAYING 'MAS' AT CARNIVAL - JAMAICA TOURIST ISSUE 15
Some 13 years after its minute beginnings, Jamaica’s carnival season draws thousands of masqueraders to the streets of Kingston and has established itself as one of the island’s signature events. Ignited by a spirit of carefree abandon, a unifying gathering of like-minded people from all walks of life, take over the capital to ‘Play Mas’ (Masquerade) in the name of good fun, laughter, music and freedom. Culminating with the dazzling ‘Carnival Sunday’ parade on the Sunday following Easter, Kingston’s streets are awash with a sea of colorful costumes, waving rags and people dancing to the rhythms of the island’s calypso and soca beat in the contagious party atmosphere.

Inspired by New Orleans’ ‘Mardi Gras’, Rio De Janeiro’s ‘Carneval’ and ‘Carnevale’ in Venice, the Jamaican version of carnival was born by a group of Jamaican revelers called the ‘Oakridge Boys’ in 1989. Unable to make their usual annual sojourn to the carnival mecca of the Caribbean, Trinidad & Tobago, they decided to create their own fun and bring carnival to their homeland. Thus, the ‘Oakridge Boys’ organized the island’s very first road march involving over 300 participants, signaling the birth of public carnival celebrations on the island. Up until then, Jamaicans typically celebrated carnival in smaller groups, partying in backyards rather than taking to the streets, as is customary in a number of other Caribbean nations.

Throughout the years, the island has seen the emergence of inventive ‘Mas Bands’, imprinting their special touch on the local masquerade. In 1990, Order of Jamaica recipient and leader of Jamaica’s most prolific calypso group called the ‘Dragonaires’, the late Byron Lee O.J., emerged as the country’s carnival champion by organizing a street parade that drew thousands of participants and spectators. The musical aficionado, who believed that a carnival could be a force to successfully unite ‘uptown’ and ‘downtown’ Kingston, later described the event as ‘the happiest day of his life’.

Ask any participant to describe their sense of freedom and euphoria on carnival day and they are likely to answer you along the same lines. Said Sara McIntyre about her inaugural carnival outing, “I can’t believe what I was missing! I felt truly alive on the road and I can’t wait for next year.” Of course, euphoric feelings are brought out en masse by a diversity of potions and infectious pulses of the Caribbean’s traditional carnival music, including calypso and soca, proliferated from big trucks carrying a variety of live bands and sound systems throughout the parade. A milestone for the island’s carnival took place in 2001, when the three top bands ‘Oakridge’, ‘Revellers’ and ‘Raiders’, merged into the dynamic entity currently known as ‘Bacchanal Jamaica’. Today the island’s leading ‘Mas Band’ sits at the midst of the action as organizers of everything from costumes, artists, programs, parades, security and music for the signature masquerade event.

Characteristically, the music is written to include a heavy contingent of horns, whistles, steel pans and drums, making it loud and brash and each year’s musical theme features repetitive lyrics, instructing revelers when to ‘wine’ or ‘gyrate’, ‘jump’ and ‘wave’ a rag or a flag. Clever plays on words produce amusing innuendos and satirical calypso songs often document the various goings-on of the island. Each year, one song is elevated to the title of ‘Official Road March Song’, receiving constant replays throughout the parade. The fusion of ‘reggae’ and ‘dancehall’ with ‘soca’ has also created a new brand of music called ‘reggae-soca’, a catchy beat to which numerous Jamaican artists like Beenie Man and Shaggy have produced highly successful tracks, demonstrating once again the melting pot of cultures which is the Caribbean.

Preparations for the annual carnival parade first begin with the unveiling of costumes, designed around a unifying concept. In 2010, Bacchanal Jamaica decided on the theme ‘Bacchanal Treasures’ and outfitted the various bands with monikers like ‘Aztec Gold’, ‘Diamonds of Kilimanjaro’ and ‘Treasures of Kashmir’. Genuine works of art, the hand-made costumes are typically adorned with rhinestones, sequins and feathers, producing vibrant displays of colors in the parade of dancing masqueraders. For those who do not wish to bare too much skin in a costume that is basically no more than a fancy bikini, joining a T-shirt band is another option which provides participants with armbands and better coverage outfits as well as two hearty meals, snacks, water and beverages during the road march.

A number of island festivities and weekly live performances by artists from around the Caribbean at ‘Mas Camp’ Carnival Headquarters in Kingston, lead up to the event’s big Sunday parade. The sight on thousands of paint covered masqueraders dancing through the streets of Kingston at 3:00 am in the morning during Friday’s J’Ouvert - a night of partying where people daub paint all over each other before heading to the streets for a pre-dawn parade - still amazes many.

On Carnival Sunday, families and friends gather along the parade route in anticipation of the frivolities of the passing procession and establishments close their doors to organize their own parties coinciding with the road march. Costume bands begin lining up at 10:00 am for the 8.1 miles long route, which takes participants approximately 8 hours to complete. If that sounds too arduous, you can always opt to be a sidewalk spectator, although the absence of an armband prevents you from joining the fun on the road. Once the cavalcade arrives at ‘Mas Camp’ the festivities continue with food, drink, music and vibes, turning into one great bash.

Carnival in Jamaica has become an anticipated fixture on the island’s entertainment calendar. Be sure to mark your calendar for next year’s Carnival Sunday, set for April 31, 2011. For more information and to purchase costumes visit www.bacchanaljamaica.com.

HOW TO ENHANCE YOUR ‘MAS’ EXPERIENCE
1. Drink lots of water and pace yourself if drinking alcohol
2. Wear comfortable shoes
3. Use sunblock with an SPF of 30 or more
4. Master the art of ‘chipping’ – small steps down the road timed with soca music
5. Reserve your costume early to get the one you really want
6. Bring something to wave with! 7. Lose some of your inhibitions
8. Wear the most beautiful accessory of all: A SMILE
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